bedroom sets 400 under image
Crow
She is a white shepherd,not aggressive at all. Very mild nature and we love that about her,but she likes being alone. She doesn't like sitting with us or going in our bedroom. We have only had her 1 week and we see a little improvement. We try to praise her and love on her all the time,but it is not really reciprocated.
Answer
Basically, you are going to be able to make only tiny changes - dogs have important developmental stages, and she is well-past the "socialisation" age-stage. What she is is almost what she'll always be, so far as character goes.
The proper time to get a pup is at 7-to-9 weeks old, which gives you a week for the pup to learn to trust you and allows you time to then give it experience (from a distance the PUP considers safe) of every movement, reflection, scent, sight, sound & texture in your environment BEFORE Pup reaches 13 weeks old and ends its "confident & curious" stage. From 13-through-16 weeks pups are in a "need security" stage - well-bred well-reared pups don't show that they are in that stage but, sadly, far too many pups miss out on both categories.
So either return her promptly, or be very patient with her slow progress.
If you keep her:
It sounds as as though she is hard to catch. So the first advice is to "wear" her.
• Put a buckle-collar on her. Using a 2-3m/6-10' flat leash, either place the loop over your right shoulder & under your left armpit, or put your belt through it. Then clip the horse-clip to the collar, and get on with your normal activities, quietly talking to her from time to time, and giving her a rub or a pat or a tidbit every time she voluntarily comes close. The objects are to get her used to your proximity and to convince her that nice things happen when she gets close to you.
If she shows fear of vacuum cleaners or spin-driers, tether her to something on the far side of the room while working; shift her to the side you've vacuumed, before cleaning "her" side.
• If she shows fright (at home or while you are walking her off-property), just stop (let her hide behind you if that is what she wants) and silently wait until SHE decides to either ignore the scary thing or - better - to investigate it. You then INSTANTLY praise her (use a high-pitched "happy" voice) and - if she's close enough - reward her with a pat or a rub.
NEVER ATTEMPT TO COMFORT OR SOOTHE A FRIGHTENED POOCH. That is REWARDING an undesirable behaviour, which encourages the dog to CONTINUE that behaviour!
You MUST wait until she gathers enough courage to tolerate whatever the scary thing is, then INSTANTLY praise-&-reward her for being brave.
DON'T take her to places where dogs run loose - neither you nor she can control how fast & close they approach.
DO learn her "bubble" - which means the distance outside which things don't bother her but inside which they do. (Cheeky sparrows have a very small "bubble" - they often let you get as close as 4ft before flying away. Humans tend to have a "bubble" of between 3 & 6 ft for strangers, 2 ft for friends.) After which, until such time as she shows that she trusts you to protect her from bad things, you make sure that you lead her AWAY from those scary things before they reach her "bubble".
• Join some of the 400+ YahooGroups dedicated to various aspects of living with GSDs. Possibly join one of the groups for owners of timid pooches.
Each group's Home page tells you which aspects they like to discuss, and how active they are. Unlike YA, they are set up so that you can have an ongoing discussion with follow-up questions for clarification. Most allow you to include photos.
• Once she shows that she trusts you, join a training-club class so that an experienced instructor can improve your use of "the voices", balance, posture, timing, rewards vs reprimands; at the same time your pet learns to pay attention regardless of what other dogs & people are doing,
Les P, owner of GSD_Friendly: http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/GSD_Friendly
"In GSDs" as of 1967
Basically, you are going to be able to make only tiny changes - dogs have important developmental stages, and she is well-past the "socialisation" age-stage. What she is is almost what she'll always be, so far as character goes.
The proper time to get a pup is at 7-to-9 weeks old, which gives you a week for the pup to learn to trust you and allows you time to then give it experience (from a distance the PUP considers safe) of every movement, reflection, scent, sight, sound & texture in your environment BEFORE Pup reaches 13 weeks old and ends its "confident & curious" stage. From 13-through-16 weeks pups are in a "need security" stage - well-bred well-reared pups don't show that they are in that stage but, sadly, far too many pups miss out on both categories.
So either return her promptly, or be very patient with her slow progress.
If you keep her:
It sounds as as though she is hard to catch. So the first advice is to "wear" her.
• Put a buckle-collar on her. Using a 2-3m/6-10' flat leash, either place the loop over your right shoulder & under your left armpit, or put your belt through it. Then clip the horse-clip to the collar, and get on with your normal activities, quietly talking to her from time to time, and giving her a rub or a pat or a tidbit every time she voluntarily comes close. The objects are to get her used to your proximity and to convince her that nice things happen when she gets close to you.
If she shows fear of vacuum cleaners or spin-driers, tether her to something on the far side of the room while working; shift her to the side you've vacuumed, before cleaning "her" side.
• If she shows fright (at home or while you are walking her off-property), just stop (let her hide behind you if that is what she wants) and silently wait until SHE decides to either ignore the scary thing or - better - to investigate it. You then INSTANTLY praise her (use a high-pitched "happy" voice) and - if she's close enough - reward her with a pat or a rub.
NEVER ATTEMPT TO COMFORT OR SOOTHE A FRIGHTENED POOCH. That is REWARDING an undesirable behaviour, which encourages the dog to CONTINUE that behaviour!
You MUST wait until she gathers enough courage to tolerate whatever the scary thing is, then INSTANTLY praise-&-reward her for being brave.
DON'T take her to places where dogs run loose - neither you nor she can control how fast & close they approach.
DO learn her "bubble" - which means the distance outside which things don't bother her but inside which they do. (Cheeky sparrows have a very small "bubble" - they often let you get as close as 4ft before flying away. Humans tend to have a "bubble" of between 3 & 6 ft for strangers, 2 ft for friends.) After which, until such time as she shows that she trusts you to protect her from bad things, you make sure that you lead her AWAY from those scary things before they reach her "bubble".
• Join some of the 400+ YahooGroups dedicated to various aspects of living with GSDs. Possibly join one of the groups for owners of timid pooches.
Each group's Home page tells you which aspects they like to discuss, and how active they are. Unlike YA, they are set up so that you can have an ongoing discussion with follow-up questions for clarification. Most allow you to include photos.
• Once she shows that she trusts you, join a training-club class so that an experienced instructor can improve your use of "the voices", balance, posture, timing, rewards vs reprimands; at the same time your pet learns to pay attention regardless of what other dogs & people are doing,
Les P, owner of GSD_Friendly: http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/GSD_Friendly
"In GSDs" as of 1967
Best home workouts i can do to prepare for the military?
Johnny
i have about 40 day until i go to meps for my check up. i want to get in better shape before they look at me. im 6.0 ft tall, 150.00 pounds i wanna get to about 160.00. my metabolism is extremely high. im broke and cannot afford a gym membership. any ideas of what i can do in my bedroom for the next 40 day? i have two 25 pound dumbbells also but that all.
Answer
Running is probably going to be your most important workout. I recommend a long distance run once a week, a high intensity run once a week, an interval run once a week, a 1.5 mile run once a week and wind sprints once a week.
Your long distance runs should start at about 3.5 miles and increase by a quarter of a mile each week.
Your high intensity run should be the maximum effort you can produce for a period of 15-20 minutes.
There are different ways you can do your interval run but I like to walk a quarter mile and then run a quarter mile. During the interval run you should be running slightly faster than your one mile run pace. try to do between 6-10 intervals per run.
Your mile and a half run should be a sprint. complete that mile and a half as fast as you can.
When sprinting, start by walking 100 yards then sprinting 100 yards, then bump it up to a 200 yard walk with a 200 yard sprint, then 400, 800, 400, 200, 100. Unless you are already an extremely well conditioned runner, you will puke during this one. I do pretty much every time.
As for workouts to help with strength, push-ups are of course going to be #1 since you are preparing for boot camp. Pyramid sets work well but I prefer doing 5 sets with a rest period of 1:30-2:00 minutes between each set. Start by doing your max so you know where you are physically. For example, if your max is 50 push-ups, do 20 push-ups each set. Make sure you are going slow on each push-up and really emphasizing proper form on your push-ups. Each week you can try increasing the number of push-ups per set. Also, be sure to test your max push-ups once a week.
You can also try inverted push-ups to help strengthen different muscles. Rest your feet on an object that is off the ground a bit and do your push-ups that way.
Dips are another good workout you can do at home or while running at the park. Find a chair or coffee table or park bench and do some dips.
Sit-ups are good as well. I put my meet under the couch so I don't have to bug my dad or brother to hold my feet every time I want to do sit-ups. I like to do 5 sets of 35 with a 50 second rest in between. Crunches also work well but I think the sit-ups are better since you are training for basic.
Flutter kicks are great for your core and hip flexer muscles. Try doing 3 sets of flutter kicks and after the last set hold your feet 6' off the ground with your legs out straight for at least 30 seconds. You will really feel it in your core. I would start with sets of 20.
Lunges, squats and wall sits are great for your legs and you can incorporate your weights in with these workouts.
If you can swing the cash to get a pull-up bar for your bedroom door, I highly recommend it. Pull-ups are another great workout.
Hope this helps. Good luck with your training.
Running is probably going to be your most important workout. I recommend a long distance run once a week, a high intensity run once a week, an interval run once a week, a 1.5 mile run once a week and wind sprints once a week.
Your long distance runs should start at about 3.5 miles and increase by a quarter of a mile each week.
Your high intensity run should be the maximum effort you can produce for a period of 15-20 minutes.
There are different ways you can do your interval run but I like to walk a quarter mile and then run a quarter mile. During the interval run you should be running slightly faster than your one mile run pace. try to do between 6-10 intervals per run.
Your mile and a half run should be a sprint. complete that mile and a half as fast as you can.
When sprinting, start by walking 100 yards then sprinting 100 yards, then bump it up to a 200 yard walk with a 200 yard sprint, then 400, 800, 400, 200, 100. Unless you are already an extremely well conditioned runner, you will puke during this one. I do pretty much every time.
As for workouts to help with strength, push-ups are of course going to be #1 since you are preparing for boot camp. Pyramid sets work well but I prefer doing 5 sets with a rest period of 1:30-2:00 minutes between each set. Start by doing your max so you know where you are physically. For example, if your max is 50 push-ups, do 20 push-ups each set. Make sure you are going slow on each push-up and really emphasizing proper form on your push-ups. Each week you can try increasing the number of push-ups per set. Also, be sure to test your max push-ups once a week.
You can also try inverted push-ups to help strengthen different muscles. Rest your feet on an object that is off the ground a bit and do your push-ups that way.
Dips are another good workout you can do at home or while running at the park. Find a chair or coffee table or park bench and do some dips.
Sit-ups are good as well. I put my meet under the couch so I don't have to bug my dad or brother to hold my feet every time I want to do sit-ups. I like to do 5 sets of 35 with a 50 second rest in between. Crunches also work well but I think the sit-ups are better since you are training for basic.
Flutter kicks are great for your core and hip flexer muscles. Try doing 3 sets of flutter kicks and after the last set hold your feet 6' off the ground with your legs out straight for at least 30 seconds. You will really feel it in your core. I would start with sets of 20.
Lunges, squats and wall sits are great for your legs and you can incorporate your weights in with these workouts.
If you can swing the cash to get a pull-up bar for your bedroom door, I highly recommend it. Pull-ups are another great workout.
Hope this helps. Good luck with your training.
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Thanks For Coming To My Blog
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